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On Location February 08 – Londolozi Safari Lodge, South Africa   by Kieran Murphy

My sister and I arrived at the airstrip at Londolozi on a beautiful hot, clear day. We were feeling rather jaded after a long flight from London but were met by a very welcome sight – Bronny waving cheerfully with Chris, our guide, sporting a Mexican style moustache and unusual tattoos.

We were whisked off to Tree Lodge and were given delicious champagne almost immediately. We were greeted by Duncan, the Manager of Tree Lodge, wearing an alarmingly small pair of lime-green shorts and a pink cowboy hat. The laughter was infectious, we felt at home straight away and we knew we were going to have fun!

Duncan led us to our sumptuous suite – a perfect combination of nature and luxury. The eye is immediately drawn to the views from the massive glass windows – the private plunge pool, deck and sala and beyond that to the trees. The rooms had absolutely everything we could possible want and was very stylishly decorated. Although we were reluctant to leave this haven of tranquillity we did not want to miss the afternoon game-drive so quickly unpacked, changed and joined our fellow guests for tea before heading off.

The afternoon/evening drive gave us a fantastic insight to Londolozi and Chris was chatty and informative. Sadly his moustache had gone! Our tracker, Jeremiah, was excellent. We saw lots of game but the highlight was seeing three lionesses and nine hungry cubs.

Back at Tree Lodge we had a delicious dinner and great wine selected by the expert – Duncan! Before eating we were told about the menu by Petunia – we were not sure whether she was responsible for the cooking but her introduction was a treat. Another treat was to follow. The Londolozi Ladies Choir appeared, as if from nowhere, to entertain us and Duncan threw himself into the dancing in a most enthusiastic and energetic manner with two of the ladies. We laughed until we cried.

When we returned to our room we were thrilled to find beautifully gift-wrapped presents waiting for us on our pillows. Very spoiling and much appreciated.

We both slept extremely well in big comfortable beds with gorgeous bed linen. It felt like the middle of the night when we had our 5.00am wake-up call with a tray of Early Grey tea and some ruskies.

Chris decided we would go and search for leopard. He did not disappoint us – we saw a beautiful young male. We also saw the lions we had seen the previous evening, a herd of buffalo wallowing, giraffe, zebra, elephants and numerous buck. There is no shortage of game at Londolozi.

We had brunch back at Tree Lodge followed by a tour of the local village where the Londolozi staff live. Matthew, the butler from our lodge, acted as our guide and we particularly enjoyed the crèche where we were greeted enthusiastically by the children.

After a quick pit-stop at the delightful shop we had a private yoga session with a wonderfully patient instructor by the pool. This was followed by a fabulous massage in our room. We had lunch on our deck before heading our again for the 4.00pm game drive.

That evening we saw a rather dramatic kill. A baby water buck took refuge in the dam near to the lodge to escape a hyena in hot pursuit only to be taken by a crocodile in one frighteningly rapid strike.

It was quite late when we returned to Tree Lodge and we were feeling rather weary after an action packed but fabulous day. We strolled back to our room with a view to getting changed for dinner and were delighted to find the table laid and lanterns lit all ready for us to eat in our private sala.

After dinner (no peace for the wicked!) we met Duncan, as arranged, at Varty Lodge. Bronny was going to join us on a moonlight walk with her brother, Boyd, and some of the other guides but sadly Bronny told us she had other work commitments so off we went.

It sounds clichéd to talk about senses being awakened but walking in the bush at night is a very different experience to being driven around by a guide in daylight. You are aware of the slightest noise, the movement of the shadows under the (almost) full moon and the scents of the bush. We were followed by a curious hyena and saw hippos and wildebeest at a distance. I am sure there were a lot of other things out there who was us too.

After walking for what seemed like an hour but was probably less we met up with a vehicle and I thought we were about to be driven back to the lodge. Boyd whispered with great seriousness that he wanted to show us One More thing. After a short drive we rounded a corner to see an area of boulders overlooking the river lit up with candles and covered with rugs and cushions. There was a also a vast selection of drinks set out on a table and a laughing Bronny to welcome us.

We relaxed on the cushions, chatted, gazed at the stars and enjoyed the tranquillity. At least we did until James (whom Duncan described as a porridge distributor) and Duncan decided to entertain us. James played the guitar and they both sang in what can only be described as their very individual and hilarious style. For the second evening running we laughed until we cried.

We fell into bed at 1.00 still smiling.

On our second and final morning we had breakfast with Bronnie and her parents Shan and Dave and then Bronnie gave us a tour of all the wonderful lodges at Londolozi before we left for the airstrip.

We had been at Londolozi for less than 48 hours but it felt as if we had been there for so much longer. We felt privileged to have stayed there and the happy memories will be with us indefinitely. There is a great atmosphere at Londolozi – almost certainly because of the ethos of the Varty family without whom it would not exist.

Whether you have been to lots of game lodges or none I would defy anyone not to love Londolozi
.

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